It’s apparently the last show of Rick Owens to take place at his faithful location of Palais de Tokyo in Paris. It’s also certainly one of his most accomplished in terms of deconstruction and superposition in his work. Nestled in the outdoor courtyard during twenty minutes of “Take My Hand”—a remix by the Russian industrial band Ic3peak—Owen’s wardrobe displays a large spectrum of species like in the myth of the tower of Babel.
The spring 2019 collection started with the figure of insects—dark flies and beetles approaching from afar, wings turned in the wind, antennas out to reach the open sky. This rich and surprising performance ended with a large bonfire, as a call to celebrate all women, from the sacrificed witches to the holy sisters.
There were a lot going on with the clothes, too, with a multitude of layers and proportions. Added on to the scene was an explosion of materials with black rubber burst into parkas, dirty denim, and flags—mixed with pearl, glitter, and shredded lace—transforming the silhouette into dystopian semitransparent goddesses in tunics and gowns.
Rick Owens is himself a precious species, a designer who makes no compromise with his vision and design. He is assertive, strong, and most of all free and independent. Yet with a large crowd of acolytes follow his impressive fashion.