Category Archives: FASHION

RICK OWENS — WINTER 2020

Of all the Parisian designers, RICK OWENS is certainly the one who best captures the essence of the city. For Fall/Winter 2019/2020, he dedicates his prêt-à-porter collection to Larry Legaspi. “Larry who? Never heard of him!” That’s okay, and this is why we love Rick, a great mentor who told us, “Larry was the man responsible for the silver and black space-sleaze looks of LaBelle and Kiss in the 1970s.”

Rick is a man who strongly relates to history. Sixteen years ago, when he moved from Los Angeles to Paris, he located his atelier and boutique—perversely—in the historic, highly refined neighborhood between place Bourbon and the Palais Royal. Charles James—America’s first couturier—had a great influence on Rick, who shamelessly admits he “knocked off [James’] cocoon coat, and reinterpreted it in raw-seamed shearling, nutria, and duvet.” (This season Rick wrote the preface to Charles James: The Couture Secrets of Shape, a contemporary reading of the twentieth-century couturier, edited by Homer Layne and Dorothea Mink.)

Rick is a great innovator who likes to reinvent himself by mixing past and futuristic imagination in present time. This fall and winter, his women will follow a graver, more solemn path. At Palais de Tokyo, the room is troubled, almost opaque, punctured by single points of light emitting from the high-ceiling. The atmosphere is raw like in a temple, keeping the audience alert. One by one, enigmatic figures pass in a slow march, one that welcomes questions and doubts: goddesses draped whole à la Fortuny; hybrid women in subtle yet vivid-colored leather overalls; half-naked girls wearing razor-cut, high-shouldered, raw silk jackets. The rhythm is slow but steady, and this procession gives a feeling of change, of a weird mutation. Thankfully the warm voice on the soundtrack—Michèle Lamy, Rick’s beautiful wife and the love of his life—restores confidence. This binding relationship shared publicly reinforces the trust we feel in Rick’s fashion.

Rick is a wizard who reminds us that with love and dedication, we can find beauty in a fragmented and sometimes unwelcoming world.

Photos © 2019 OwensCorp, France

K8 HARDY’S OUTFITUMENTARY

“A record of the way a young lesbian feminist dressed in her coming of age” — K8 Hardy

K8 Hardy’s directorial debut OUTFITUMENTARY (2016) will screen this week as part of the Jason Simon series Blame the Audience at MOCA.

Also on the bill: If Andy Warhol’s Super-8 Camera Could Talk, directed by Roddy Bogawa, and Tiger Morse, directed by Warhol.

OUTFITUMENTARY

Thursday, March 7, at 6 pm.

MOCA Grand Avenue

250 South Grand Avenue, downtown Los Angeles.

From top: K8 Hardy, Outfitumentary, still; Andy Warhol, Tiger Morse, aka Tiger Morse (Reel 14 of ****), still; K8 Hardy, How To: Untitled Runway Show book cover, published by DoPe Press in 2013, cover design by Madame Paris.

THE PASSION OF MCQUEEN

The opera-in-development THE PASSION OF MCQUEEN imagines the last hours in the life of Alexander McQueen.

A staged concert of the forthcoming work—with music by Kentaro Kameyama, libretto by William Nedved, and direction by Diana Wyenn—will feature mezzo-soprano Peabody Southwell as Isabella Blow, and baritone David Castillo as Lee.

THE PASSION OF MCQUEEN concert

Friday, March 1, at 8 pm.

Boston Court

70 North Mentor Avenue, Pasadena.

From top: David Castillo, courtesy the artist; Peabody Southwell, courtesy the Metropolitan Opera, New York; Alexander McQueen, photograph by Ann Deniau, courtesy the photographer and Bleecker Street.

LAGERFELD AT GALERIE GMURZYNSKA

HOMAGE TO KARL LAGERFELD—30 YEARS OF PHOTOGRAPHY celebrates the voracious image-making practice of the late designer and publisher.

HOMAGE TO KARL LAGERFELD—30 YEARS OF PHOTOGRAPHY

Through May 15

Galerie Gmurzynska

Talstrasse 37, Zürich.

From top: Karl Lagerfeld, Gone with the Wind, 1996; Karl Lagerfeld, Untitled, 1996; Karl Lagerfeld, Series Eiffel-Turm, 2010; Karl Lagerfeld, Lüstern aber schüchtern, Serie Hommage an Lyonel Feininger, 1997. Images courtesy Galerie Gmurzynska.

THE SPIRITS REFUSE WITHOUT A BODY

The performance THE SPIRITS REFUSE WITHOUT A BODY will activate the garments and helmets Jeffrey Gibson produced for his New Museum residency and exhibition THE ANTHROPOPHAGIC EFFECT.

Gibson’s work in the show is directly inspired by Indigenous handcraft techniques and aesthetics, and reflect his research into Southeastern river cane basket weaving, Algonquian birch bark biting, and porcupine quillwork.

THE SPIRITS REFUSE WITHOUT A BODY

Thursday, February 21, at 7 pm.

JEFFREY GIBSON—THE ANTHROPOPHAGIC EFFECT

Through June 9.

New Museum

235 Bowery, New York City.

From top: Jeffrey GibsonMx. Oops and Xavier, 2018, digital photograph; Jeffrey GibsonWendell, 2018, digital photograph; Jeffrey GibsonChristine Garcia with Love l , 2018, digital photograph. Images courtesy the artist, Sikkema Jenkins & Co., Kavi Gupta, and Roberts Projects.