Category Archives: FASHION

SUSTAINABLE FASHION

This week in New York, Amanda Hearst and Hassan Pierre—founders of Maison de Mode—will talk about the future of sustainable fashion, as they see it.

 

FASHION—A NEW SOCIAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL STANDARD

Tuesday, November 27, at 7 pm.

Park Avenue Armory, 643 Park Avenue (between 66th and 67th streets), New York City.

Above: Nomadic Collector, Par Avion clutch.

Below: Studio 189, black xan-print, hand-batik Andy button-down short-sleeve shirt.

OLIVIER MEYROU’S CÉLÉBRATION

Documentarian Olivier Meyrou was imbedded within the house of Yves Saint Laurent from 1998 to 2001, the designer’s last years at the maison he founded with Pierre Bergé. Unsurprisingly, neither of the principals was in top form during these years of final decline, and—displeased with the results—Bergé suppressed the commercial release of the footage.

Since his death all legal barriers have been cleared, and the paradoxically titled CÉLÉBRATION opened this week in Paris.

CÉLÉBRATION

Through November 20.

MK2 Beaubourg

50 rue Rambuteau, 3rd, Paris.

MK2 Parnasse

11 rue Jules Chaplain, 6th, Paris.

Q & A’s with Olivier Meyrou at Beaubourg on November 15 and 20.

Stills from Célébration. Image credit: Hold Up Films.

DOVER STREET MARKET LOS ANGELES IS OPEN

Dover Street Market Los Angeles is open for business.

“It’s really sad and somewhat annoying to read that the future of retail is online. Don’t get me wrong, our e-shops are doing incredibly well and are becoming a very important part of the business. But, ultimately, we’d like them to stay as a kind of service for people who are not near a Dover Street Market, or who need a reorder.

DSM is a family, and a family that doesn’t meet and touch and talk and exchange is not a family that can grow and evolve in a healthy way.” — Adrian Joffe, Comme des Garçons CEO*

 

Dover Street Market, 606–608 Imperial Street, downtown Los Angeles.

*“Independent Lines: Adrian Joffe in conversation with Dorothée Perret,” PARIS LA 16 (2018), 20–24.

All images courtesy Dover Street Market.

OLIVIER THEYSKENS — SPRING 2019

Olivier Theyskens’ spring 2019 collection—though presented in a warehouse during daylight hours—continued to touch on the darker, somber side of nature.

It started with headpieces fashioned from sticks of wood painted black, and it carried on through the prints picturing Hans Bellmer’s famous Doll series. The collection is comprised mostly of dresses, where their fabrics and assemblages woke up some real gothic spirits. Lingerie, corset, lace, patent leather, and transparent knitted cashmere offered a view of the flesh, which was sometimes covered by a pair of long sleeves.

Theyskens here again confirms his personal take on fashion, and a secular soul to accompany it.

VALENTINO — SPRING 2019

It was in the warmth of a late fall afternoon—in a sun parlor with succulent plants, on a soft white carpet—that the spring 2019 collection of Valentino was presented. Valentino is one of the oldest and most traditional Italian maisons, based in the historic city of Rome. Today, between the guests present and the models parading along, this captivating spirit of high fashion was well celebrated.

To set the tone, the designer PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI opened the march with KRISTEN MCMENAMY, one of the most unconventional models from the nineties era. But this move and, simply, her pride to exhibit her beautiful cascade of natural white hair—falling on a thick, generous black silk robe—felt here simply right and pleasant. There was something comforting in the air. The collection later exposed a wide range of beautiful dresses­—studied silhouettes in ample volumes and precious materials. The round of colors—dark chocolate, spicy orange, dusty pink, and Valentino red—produced a worship of good taste.

After all, with Valentino we’re in the culture of couture, where good behavior and opulence meet, and PICCIOLI is a designer who understands its language very well—who translates it to the present day with agreeable intensity and serene calm.