Documentarian Olivier Meyrou was imbedded within the house of YvesSaint Laurent from 1998 to 2001, the designer’s last years at the maison he founded with Pierre Bergé. Unsurprisingly, neither of the principals was in top form during these years of final decline, and—displeased with the results—Bergé suppressed the commercial release of the footage.
Since his death all legal barriers have been cleared, and the paradoxically titled CÉLÉBRATION opened this week in Paris.
Dover Street Market Los Angeles is open for business.
“It’s really sad and somewhat annoying to read that the future of retail is online. Don’t get me wrong, our e-shops are doing incredibly well and are becoming a very important part of the business. But, ultimately, we’d like them to stay as a kind of service for people who are not near a Dover Street Market, or who need a reorder.
“DSM is a family, and a family that doesn’t meet and touch and talk and exchange is not a family that can grow and evolve in a healthy way.” — Adrian Joffe, Comme des Garçons CEO*
Olivier Theyskens’ spring 2019 collection—though presented in a warehouse during daylight hours—continued to touch on the darker, somber side of nature.
It started with headpieces fashioned from sticks of wood painted black, and it carried on through the prints picturing Hans Bellmer’s famous Doll series. The collection is comprised mostly of dresses, where their fabrics and assemblages woke up some real gothic spirits. Lingerie, corset, lace, patent leather, and transparent knitted cashmere offered a view of the flesh, which was sometimes covered by a pair of long sleeves.
Theyskens here again confirms his personal take on fashion, and a secular soul to accompany it.