Tag Archives: Reiner Holzemer

MARTIN MARGIELA — IN HIS OWN WORDS

There are different needs in the fashion world and I’m not sure I can feed them… I don’t like the idea of being a celebrity; anonymity is very important to me… I pushed myself constantly to extremes. I always wanted to have my name linked to the product I created, not to the face I have. — Martin Margiela*

Martin Margiela began his career as an assistant to Jean Paul Gaultier and was the creative director at Hermès from 1997 to 2003. He and business partner Jenny Meirens opened Maison Martin Margiela in 1989, and for the next twenty years—through 41 collections—revolutionized fashion.

Margiela left the fashion world in 2008. Ten year later, Reiner Holzemer—director of an acclaimed 2017 documentary about Dries Van Noten—persuaded the designer to commit, on audiotape, a reflection of his archive and legacy. The resulting film—MARTIN MARGIELA—IN HIS OWN WORDS, featuring on camera interviews with Gaultier, Cathy Horyn, Olivier Saillard, Carine Roitfeld and others—premiered last year at Doc NYC and is available for streaming now.

See link below for details.

MARTIN MARGIELA—IN HIS OWN WORDS*

Written, directed, and co-produced by Reiner Holzemer.

Soundtrack by Deus.

Above and below, from top: Reiner Holzemer, Martin Margiela—In His Own Words (2019), film stills (9), courtesy and © Maison Martin Margiela, Paris, the filmmaker and Dogwoof Sales. Bottom: Maison Martin Margiela label, courtesy and © Maison Martin Margiela.

DRIES

Image result for dries van noten and patrick vangheluwe

“ ‘Fashion’ is such an empty word.” — Dries Van Noten

As is stated by curator Geert Bruloot at the onset of DRIES—the Dries Van Noten documentary directed by Reiner Holzemer—this original member of the Antwerp Six remains an “artisanal designer,” bringing emotion and passion to a field overrun with indistinct “product.”

Van Noten is always looking, eyes wide open to a variety of influences, and a believer in the art of coincidences. Amid the beautiful, flowering brocades, Van Noten introduces what he calls “bad taste,” or “things that hurt the eye.”

“I need contrasts, I need tensions. I need a kind of clash in the collections.” — Van Noten

The film features Van Noten explicating several key runway shows, as well as a look into the visually rich home life Van Noten shares with his longtime partner Patrick Vangheluwe, both of them happily possessed by their possessions.

Also seen and heard from in the film: Iris Apfel, Pamela Golbin, Suzy Menkes, and Jane Birkin.

 

DRIES, Netflix.

netflix.com/title

See: hero-magazine.com/dries-van-noten-documentary

Top: Dries Van Noten watching an exit.

Above: Ringenhof, the estate of Van Noten and Patrick Vangheluwe in Lier, Belgium.

Below: Van Noten (second from left) and his fellow Antwerp Six.

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